A Sea, a pirate and the birth of a lake

 How Raktabahu’s evil intent was undone and Chilika was born

 I love stories with fantastical elements, peppered with larger-than-life characters and dollops of magic realism. On a recent trip to Lake Chilika on the eastern coast of Odisha state, I stumbled upon some quaint legends surrounding the lake, especially its formation. And, like with all stories, I love embellishments. So, here is my ‘decorated’ version.

The story goes, there was a roguish pirate king by the name, Raktabahu. Literally, that translates to one who’s arms are drenched with blood. He did have the blood of many on his hands, metaphorically speaking. He had looted , pillaged and killed many in his violent attacks on trading ships sailing the eastern seas. The ships laden with merchandise for foreign shores, with their weather-beaten but honest sadhavas (sailor merchants) would be caught unawares on moonlit nights on the high seas. The moon would be a mute witness to the murders as masked bandits sprand aboard and slaughtered the men, stowed away the precious goods and left the ship adrift. What watery ends the guileless must suffer! Raktabahu and his pirates also came ashore when they heard a village had prospered, perhaps with a fat harvest of paddy or a good year of livestock. They swam in stealthily and burned the huts. They massacred the fleeing villagers and stole away their live’s earnings. He was the bane of the countryside, this Raktabahu. The land’s inhabitants prayed to their Lord, the Chakadola (Round-eyed one, who sees everything), their Jagannath. Surely, he could see what  havoc was being wreaked by Raktabahu. Surely, He would wrought punishment.

Far from their prayers, the monstrous Raktabahu plundered on. He had heard of Puri, the city of the Lord. He had heard of the Gajapati, the king of the land, who considered himself but a servant of the Lord. His palace, however, was packed with riches and the granaries full to the brim. Raktabahu thirsted for the plunder of Puri. He and devious men devised a plan. They anchored their boats far out in the sea, to avoid being seen from the shore. They awaited the dark skies of the Amavasya (new moon night) for their attack of Puri.

But the Sea recognized their evil intentions. The Sea, that gently lapped the shores of Puri, couldn’t stand the thoughts of its waters defiled with the anticipated bloodshed. So, it decided to foul Raktabahu’s plans. It carried refuse from the pirate ships to the city’s shores. Mutilated carcasses, meat-encrusted bones, shreds of pirate flags, blackened driftwood and discarded wooden armour – all washed up at Puri. The city shivered with fear. Its protectors whisked away the townspeople into safer villages, far inland. The palace hid away its treasures in secret mints and the temple’s priests carried away the Lord’s idols high into the mountains, to locations pre-determined by rite and ritual, where no malicious intent could reach.

When Raktabahu eventually entered the city of Puri, the unnerving silence struck him. The city was empty. There was no one around to strike down and kill. There was nothing left to steal. He roared with frustration, his ravenous appetite for plunder unsatiated. He was so angry that he turned his anger on the Sea. You, vile formless creature, he thundered at the Sea. How dare you foil my plans for victory? Now you will face my wrath. He ordered his men to attack the Sea. Led by a frenzied Raktabahu, his men brandished their spears and swords and advanced at the Sea.

The Sea was prepared. It receded far offshore, laying bare its seabed, sand and salt glistening in the sun. The pirate army charged on in pursuit. They ran over the damp seabed, pursuing their prey, the receding Sea. Look how the mighty Sea flees from our onslaught, they mocked and laughed amongst themselves. Coward, they screamed, come back and fight!

The Sea stopped. It was far out from the shore. The receding waters had backlogged into a massive force that pushed at the seams. Then the Sea turned around and faced Raktabahu and his hordes. You want a fight? Here I come.

Have you seen the tide come in on a full moon night? Even in its placid form, the seawaters sweep all as they come inland. Now can you imagine how the angry Sea, which had receded miles offshore pursued by Raktabahu, would sweep back in? It surged back, washing away Raktabahu and his men, lifting them up like litter upon gigantic waves and breaking their bones as the wave crashed down to the shore. The force with which the Sea surged back broke landforms near the shore, submerged everything for miles and finally settled in the form of a large lagoon. There was no sign of the pirate king and his army. The land had been cleansed of an evil force and peace could finally return.

Thus, was born Chilika. Of course, this story is more fantasy than fact. The lake must have been formed a few thousand years ago from geological changes. But its nice to nurture stories that capture our imaginations. So, when we stand on the Chilika shoreline, we can almost exult as the Sea swallows Raktabahu and saves the land.  

Today, Chilika Lake is the largest brackish water lagoon in the world, spread over 3 districts in the state of Odisha on the eastern coast of India. It provides livelihood to countless fisherfolk in its coastal villages and islands. Some of its beaches are nesting grounds for the Olive Ridley turtles. The Irrawady dolphions have been sighted in its waters. It’s a lovely lake, though much cosmetic improvement could be done to its ecosystem and surrounding areas. But for the general low developmental index of those areas, which is evident from the poverty of the people, the area could stand-out as a jewel on the Odisha coastline.